It’s a rare thing to find a truly hidden gem when traveling. Between overtourism and social media, it seems that nearly all the good spots have been uncovered, for better or worse.
Recently however, I had the pleasure of experiencing a small coastal town in Thailand barely touched by tourists yet beloved by locals.
The shoreline lies like a curved scimitar, its turquoise inviting waters sparkle iridescently under a sun that beats down from a high blue sky. You will find little about it on the internet. Even the digital nomad crowd has yet to discover it, which is surprising given its excellent connectivity. The reason is that the locals have a great desire to keep it for themselves, because it is that magical.
I sat, luxuriating in the warm, shallow waters, with the gentle waves lapping over me. I was the only person on the entire three-mile stretch of beach apart from a Western couple 500 yards further away. Locals don't come until near sunset, as, unlike in the West, having a suntan is not cool for them.
I considered how people are like sheep, and flock to the same so-called world-class, supposedly unmissable, unsustainable tourist resorts, under two hours' drive from here. These places, with their gridlocked traffic, crowded beaches that are infested with plastic pollution, dangerous, noisy jet skis, unruly tourists, touts trying to sell cheap bracelets, or real fake watches, and worst of all, exorbitant North European prices, are a million miles from where I wallowed.
I looked around and studied my spectacular setting and breathed in the ambiance that surrounded me. The contrast that I am now experiencing, the peace, stillness, and quiet of the soft morning light that begins the day. The shoreline with its narrow deserted powdery sand beach, flanked by Pine Trees and colorful Flame Trees. A guaranteed stress-free day that stretches out until the arrival of a psychedelic sunset of pink, amber violet, and crimson, one able to be enjoyed without intrusion.
I have been fortunate enough to visit some of the world’s best tropical islands, but these islands that seem to float in front of me are unique. They are the best I have ever visited. The gentle gradient of the beach gives the illusion that you could walk out to them. They have not changed since I first visited them 35 years ago.
If you are after glitzy shopping malls, 5-star hotels, and lively nightclubs, you have come to the wrong place. The small town is unspoilt, as are its inhabitants, who have not been jaded by mass tourism. They are genuine, friendly, and honest. The ice cream and drink fridges outside their seafront shops are left unlocked all night, and nothing goes missing. On our second day, seven different people from different walks of life, including shopkeepers, reception staff, a waitress, and a street cleaner, all informed me. “We saw your wife jogging on the beach at first light.”
Some of the houses and shopfronts are delightfully dilapidated and dishevelled, but this just embellishes the aura of a laidback, unhurried, unpretentious feel. The bounty of the sea is never far away. There is a string of restaurants on the beach that all have on the menu, prawns, fish, lobster, or crab. Our favorite is the shark steak with a spicy sauce. A sumptuous seafood meal with beers comes to $10 per person. They also sell pizza and hotdogs and great local food. There are a couple of excellent air-conditioned coffee shops that sell great coffee and surprisingly delicious cakes.
We met Chad, a marine biologist from southern California, who lives here 6 months of the year, conducting research. He told us. “When people ask me where I stay, I tell them 40 minutes away in the provincial capital. I’m selfish, I don’t want people visiting as they will like it so much, and they may come and stay. The important factor about conducting research here is it is pristine. Human activity on the islands is not allowed for 6 months of the year, giving time for regeneration. This is due to the National Park Authority that manages the area.’
Chad took us on a kayak trip to spot the dugongs and whale sharks that frequent these waters. These graceful, peaceful creatures are now a protected species and are flourishing. It was exhilarating. There is a small expat community of between 20 and 30 people. A modern-style house can be rented for around $550, usually with one or two air conditioners. As a couple, you can live the easy-going lifestyle easily for less than $1200 a month, this increases if you do a bit of exploring throughout the region.
It is impossible not to be happy here. It is a special place. I love it when the lady in the family-run guest house told us to choose any room, “as no one is staying at the moment.” I love it when streets are not on Google Maps. I love it when people don’t lock their doors at night. This paradise is so laidback that Christmas decorations are still on display in April, or maybe they have just put them up early, as every day is Christmas here, albeit a sultry, relaxed, and perfect one.
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